Spring Surfing

I surfed Monday (3/7/05), Tuesday, took off Wednesday and Thursday for work, surfed Friday, Saturday Sunday and Monday. I expected my arms to be a little sore from the regular work and the tough inside section we have had lately, but my legs are the most sore part of my body. My last wave today was a nice left that didn't stay open long. I planted and made the drop, made a nice bottom turn and looked up to see a wall of water a few feet over my head. Knowing it was going to close soon, I brought my board up high on the wave and turned hard toward the beach. As I sped back down the wave, the lip came crashing down on the back of my board. I focused on staying on my feet as the whitewater exploded behind me. When it finally settled out I was still on my feet and got a free ride to the beach. There are several moments in surfing that stay with me, images I can recall months or years later. The sight of the lip of that wave curling over my head is one I will not soon forget.