Monday, April 27, 2026

Oklahoma and No Man's Land

Have you ever wondered why Oklahoma has a panhandle?  Why is it called No Man's Land?  Why isn't it part of Texas? Why does the southern border of the panhandle align with the southern border of Missouri, Kentucky and Virginia? 

 

The panhandle of Oklahoma was not always part of Oklahoma.  It started it's journey to become part of the 46th state when Napoleon Bonaparte sold the land that comprised the Mississippi River drainage west of the river to the United States in 1803.

 

In 1819, the Adams-Onis treaty ceded the panhandle and other territory to Spain in exchange for Florida.  The panhandle lies between the Arkansas River and Red River and the 100 degree W meridian is its eastern boundary.

 

At the start of 1820 there were 22 states in the Union, 11 free states and 11 slave states.  When Missouri applied for statehood it created a crisis since it would break the balance of free vs. slave states.  As a solution Maine was added as a free state, restoring the balance.  Additionally, the parallel at 36 degrees 30 minutes north latitude became the the divide between new slave states and new free states created from the Louisiana Purchase territory. This parallel was an extension of the southern border of Kentucky and Virginia.

After the Louisiana Purchase, the US viewed the land west of the Mississippi as a place to relocate Indians from the eastern United States.  After Louisiana and Missouri became states and Arkansas became a territory, that area shrunk. 

In 1830 Andrew Jackson pushed through Congress and signed the Indian Removal Act.  This formalized the unofficial policy of relocation and accelerated the rate at which tribes were pushed out of their homeland and moved to what is now Oklahoma and Kansas. From 1830 to 1841 more than 60,000 native Americans were forced to walk from their homelands to the Indian Territory.

 

In 1836 the Republic of Texas was established by settlers from the US.  It was an independent nation, recognized by the US but not by Spain.  Spain did not inhabit this part of their territory so when folks like Steve Austin, Davey Crocket and Sam Houston established settlements, they effectively controlled the eastern part of what is today Texas.  Additionally they claimed, but did not control additional territory to the west.

In 1845 Texas was admitted to the union as a slave state with the same boundaries as the Republic of Texas.  This created another crisis  because a portion of Texas, including the Oklahoma panhandle, was above the 36 degree, 30 minute line.

 

In 1850 Texas was in a lot of debt after operating as an independent country and fighting in the Mexican American War.  As part of the compromise to admit California as the 31st state, the US assumed Texas' $10M debt and Texas had to give up some western and northern territory.  This established the borders of Texas as they are today and made the panhandle part of unorganized federal territory.

 

In 1854 the Kansas-Nebraska Act created the Kansas Territory and Nebraska Territory.  This established the southern border of Kansas at 37 degrees north latitude. As more people moved to the Kansas and Nebraska Territories, the Indians were forced out and relocated to the remaining unorganized territory. 

 

By 1879 many Indian Tribes were living in Indian Territory, each governing their own portion of the territory. No Man's Land remained unaffiliated with any organized territory or state.

 

The Dawes Act in 1887 and later the Burke Act and the Curtis Act phased out Indian ownership of land by 1906, and abolished all tribal courts, giving the US government exclusive jurisdiction.

The 1890 Oklahoma Organic Act created the Oklahoma Territory.  Under this law, Indian Territory was subject to the laws of Arkansas and Oklahoma Territory was subject to the laws of Nebraska. 

The new Oklahoma Territory included No Man's Land, ending its 40 year run as an ungoverned strip of land. 

Seeing the writing on the wall, the tribes of the Indian Territory proposed a State of Sequoyah as a new state in 1905. This was rejected by the US Congresss.

 

The Enabling Act of 1906 allowed the people living in both Oklahoma Territory and Indian Territory to apply for statehood as a single state.

In 1907, Oklahoma was admitted to the union as the 46th State. 


 


Sunday, April 26, 2026

Leaving Lincoln Nebraska

Today we are leaving Lincoln Nebraska, heading (circuitously) to Minneapolis.

Here is the latest map of our travels to date.  You can click on the map if you want more details.  Be patient though, it may load slowly.

  

Thursday, March 26, 2026

Welcome to Louisiana

After getting our Montana sticker back in June, we finally made it to lucky state number 13, Louisiana!  We stopped at a rest stop right after entering Louisiana, where we saw an alligator in the water.  We celebrated with an alligator po'boy sandwich from Steamboat Bill's in Lake Charles.  Currently camped in Chicot (chee-koh) state park.

 

State number 13!

 

Welcome to Louisiana!

 

Gator in the wild

 

Gator on a roll

 

Monday, February 2, 2026

New Mexican Food

The food scene in New Mexico is awesome.  We have enjoyed many good meals during our stay in Albuquerque.  New Mexican cuisine borrows heavily from Mexican food, but there are several items we have found that are unique to New Mexico. 

The sopapilla is an unassuming fried bread that is part pita, part donut. It puffs up when cooked so can be filled.  It is used to make both savory and sweet dishes.

Sopapilla

 

Inside a sopapilla
  
Carne Adovada is pork, slow roasted in a red chili sauce.  It is not terribly spicy but is definitely delicious. 
 
New Mexican breakfast of potatoes with Carne Adovada and a fried egg.
 
Hatch Chiles are a staple of New Mexican food.  We had been to Hatch our first time through NM (https://wallihan.blogspot.com/2025/02/hatch.html).  The chiles are green when they are picked and turn red as the dry out.  In NM you will be asked if you want red or green, meaning which chile sauce you prefer.  Green is spicier than red, but they are both tasty.  If you can't decide you can ask for "Christmas" and you will get a mix of red and green.
 
Red and green chile sauces
 
Which brings me to what may be the ultimate New Mexican dish.  Take a Sopapilla, stuff it with carne adovada and smother it with chile sauce and cheese.  This is a uniquely New Mexican dish and is quite delicious. 
 
Sopapilla stuffed with carne adovada and smothered in green chile sauce and cheese.
 
For dessert you can enjoy a biscochito, a cinnamon dusted sugar cookie.  Flaky, buttery and slightly sweet.  If you like cookies (I do) you'll like these cookies.
 
And for a nightcap Ponderosa Whiskey is a good New Mexican whiskey. 
 
Biscochitos and whiskey.  A classic dessert.
 

 

Friday, January 30, 2026

Karchner Caverns

We visited Karchner Caverns, near Benson, AZ.  It is a limestone cavern discovered by two geology students in the 1970's.  They convinced the landowner and the governor of Arizona to sell the land to the state of Arizona and establish it as a State Park.  It helped that both the landowner and the governor had geology backgrounds.

 

 




 

Thursday, January 29, 2026

Petroglyph National Monument

Petroglyph National Monument is on the west side of Albuquerque.  The images were made by Ancestral Puebloans between roughly 400 and 3000 years ago.

The rocks are basalt, a volcanic rock that oxidizes to the dark color over millions of years.  The images are made by removing the oxidation layer. 

 

 

 

  

 

Looking east across Albuquerque at the Sandia Mountains

 

Looking west at the remnants of the volcanoes that made the rocks the petroglyohs are carved in.

Tuesday, January 27, 2026

Tombstone

Tombstone is a town in southern Arizona that is home to the story of Wyatt Earp and Doc Holiday facing off against the Cowboys at the OK Corral.  We stopped there and saw the live reenactment and strolled the dusty streets.

 

 

Thursday, January 15, 2026

Petrified Forest National Park


The Petrified Forest is in the Painted Desert.

There are many petroglyphs within the park


The petrified logs are incredible.  They look just like wood.

Many of the petrified logs are clearly broken segments of the same tree.

Sunset in Holbrook Arizona

 

Tuesday, January 13, 2026

Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon is always amazing to see.  We took the road west to Hermit's Rest, a direction I had not previously been.

 

Wednesday, January 7, 2026

Death Valley

Badwater Basin in Death Valley is the lowest point in North America.  It is normally dry.

When Badwater Basin fills with water it is called Lake Manly.  There had been significant rain in the Death Valley area so we went there to see the lake.