Monday, November 1, 2004
Winter Surfing
Sunday was what I consider to be the first day of winter surfing. Daylight savings time switched off on Sunday morning at 2:00, the air has a chill although the water is still not cold. I started wearing my fullsuit. I surfed last Sunday, 10/24 and then not again, due to darkness and rain, until yesterday, 10/31. I was supposed to meet Travis down south for a trip to Swami's, but an alarmclock SNAFU thwarted my plans and I ended up at 17th. There was an extreme north swell in the water and the waves were breaking at a distinct angle to the shoreline. The setwaves were head high, but really slow. Despite the angle, they were breaking both ways. Today was similar, but with some south in the water to really mix things up. Not as peaky, with more close out sections. Need to buy booties, not for the water, but for the walk across the sand. With daylight savings time done with, there is plenty of light in the mornings, so we are back at 17th street on a regular basis.
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