Sixteenth Log Entry 10/14/04

Today is Thursday and marks the last day I will surf until at least next Friday. I have surfed 98/112 days since the daily routine started on June 25. We have seen small surf that was barely rideable, overhead surf carved hollow by Santa Ana winds, choppy surf that tossed you around like you were skiiing moguls and last Saturday we had what I consider to be perfect surf. The water was glassy and the wind was inperceptible. Set waves were coming in about head high and pealing left and right. They were fast, clean and plentiful. I surfed more than two hours until finally a combination of fatigue and increasingly croweded conditions drove me from the water. Some days I barely make quota, some days I catch an excess of so-so surf, and then those rare days like Saturday I lose track of how many really fast and fun rides I get. The last few days we have been surfing at RJs to help perpetuate Travis' streak. The place is filled with high school kids who are full of surf skills and short on manners. As you go further north, people get more laid back (and older) culminating at Bolsa Chica, where the crowds are friendly (and somewhat geriatric)