Back again

Finally Tuesday (1/18) I hit the water again. Surf was small, tide was high, it was dark. There was only one other guy out there. It was really sharky. I caught my three waves and got out. Yesterday I met up with Travis at the Cliffs. I had the shortboard because the surf report was for a big swell to hit. It was bigger than Tuesday, maybe shoulder high, head high on the big sets, but shifty and unpredictable. Riding the short board is like going back to the beginning of summer and learning to surf all over again. I almost went back to the long board today, but decided to gut it out. I did better and hopefully there will be a pivotal point where I improve rapidly and can ride the short board as well as I have learned to ride the long board.