YeeeeHaaaa!!!

Back in the water again after a protracted absence, it was good to have decent surf and only Travis to share it with. I caught a couple of mushy waves before I noticed some of the outside stuff arriving. It was shifty and sporatic, but I figured it was worth a shot, so I paddled out some more and a bit north. I saw one come to the south of me, where I had just been, and another, almost at the same time, to the north, where I was not yet. I have learned not to overreact to that kind of thing at Huntington, because like I said, it was sporatic, so I sat up and waited. Finally a 6-7 ft wave was coming just north of me and was going to break outside of where I was, but I figured I could catch the shoulder as it came past me. I waited until the last possible moment, then turned and paddled as hard as I could. I felt sure I was too late, that the lip was going to crash over and take me with it. I popped quickly to my feet and stayed crouched, waiting for the fall. Instead, I felt a quick accleration as the back of my board came out of the wave behind it and I rushed down the face of the wave on a perfect line, screaming like a little kid.