Got a screaming drop today. Was positioned just right, built up lots of speed and then was able to work the face to maintain speed for the entire ride. Definitely the ride of the day. Got some other good rides too, I stayed up too high on one of them, trying to get a big drop and ended up getting thrown over the falls. That one was a right. The size has picked up considerably from yesterday, and the swell is definitely from the south, probably due to Isis or Javier, more likely Isis as Javier is still tucked in too close to land to affect our swell too much. Got in the water at 6:20, it was just barely getting light.
Friday, September 17, 2004
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1 comment:
This is really great, Brett.
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