Day 75/87. The sun comes up later each day. I think we have about 2 weeks until there will be no hope of getting to work by 7:30. Friday was fun. Saturday was really fun. I caught a screaming left that pitched momentarily and put me in a barrel. Several other good rides, both right and left. Sunday was really choppy, more than a foot of chop. It made it very difficult to get any speed to get into a wave. I had another collision with Travis. This one nobody's fault, just an unfortuate effect of the crowd. I had turned and was paddling out to beat an outside wave, did not quite get far enough and got pulled back over the falls. The tail of my board landed on Travis' back and broke one of my side fins. Luckily (for Travis) it is a plastic fin and not a fiberglass or carbon fiber fin. That would have hurt more.
Sunday, September 19, 2004
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