Thirteenth Log Entry 9/22/04

I needed today. Medium size waves don't give you the same rush as the bigger ones, but after a few days of fighting whitewash, crowds and the resulting low wavecount, it was refreshing to have a day that was just fun. Surf today was 4-6 with very clean shoulders. There is still a light offshore, not enough to make barrels, but enough to give the wave good shape. The water was lightly textured from the wind, but not choppy. The water was warm and the sun was out. I can't imagine a better way to start the day. Waves were fast enough to make them fun, but not too big. There was enough gap between sections to allow you to paddle out without having to fight a lot of whitewash. We were back at 17th street and there were only about 8 people in the water for as far as I could see. When my alarm went off, I stuck my watch underwater and pretended not to hear it. Not much more to say. It was simply fun.