A little fatigue

I went surfing this morning on the shortboard. The swell had picked up and the set waves were coming in about head high. I did manage to get to my feet three times to make quota, but none of them were spectacular. The swell would build and build and then break quickly, partly due to the onshore wind. I did not have the quickness today to make it to my feet on the faster board. Yesterday was much better. The swell was a bit smaller and there was no wind. I made three good sections yesterday and got a confidence boost I needed to keep going on the shortboard.

Part of my sluggishness this morning was due to my active weekend. I surfed Saturday morning, if only briefly, and then went of a charity walk/5k with the family. I ended up running about half of it pushing two kids in a double stroller and wearing flip flops. Then I surfed Sunday, worked in the yard, rode a stationary bike and ran on a treadmill. I felt a little stiff in the legs when I woke up this morning and with the swell and the chop my arms felt the worst while I was in the water, but when I got out I definitely felt the fatigue in my legs. Unfortunately for me, the swell is supposed to continue throughout the week so I may not get a day off for a while.

Oh yeah, one more thing. There was no-one else near me. There were two guys about a quarter mile north and two girls tried to paddle out in about the same spot, but didn't get through the inside surf. The water was grey and choppy and I was on a short board (more sea lion looking from the bottom than a longboard). All in all it rated 7 fins on the sharky scale. I got out early and was at work by 7:30 again.